Tidbits: Asparagus love, cookbook love

Are you sick of asparagus yet?

Please say no.

And then, if you are within hailing distance of Oneco, Connecticut, get yourself to Falls Creek Farm before June 8, which is the last picking day of asparagus season. At the farm, owner Laura Pailthorpe will help you select your asparagus by size, from pencil thin to medium ($2.75/pound) up to super-fat ($3/pound), on the day they were picked. After June 8, call to check on availability: 860-564-5554.

Falls Creek Farm's farmstand is open all summer; you can find Laura and husband Mark also at the Danielson Farmers Market (Saturdays 9 am-12 noon, opening June 14) and New London, CT (Tuesdays 2:30-5:30 pm).

Looking for asparagus here in Rhode Island? Check at some of the local farmers markets that are open early in the season, including Pawtuxet Village in Cranston, where one of the more unusual farms is Pak Express, run by Laotian farmer Chang Xiong, who grows a wide range of Asian vegetables. Farm Fresh Rhode Island has the complete list of farmers market dates and locations.

If you've been watching Top Chef this season, you'll remember the famous pairing of asparagus with Boucheron, an orange-rinded goat's milk cheese from the Loire Valley. For suggestions of other cheeses that pair with asparagus, ask a cheesemonger like chef/owner Matt Jennings and his knowledgeable staff at Farmstead, now in two locations (Wayland Square and Westminster Street). Sign up for Farmstead's free mailing list, and find out about classes, new cheeses, wine events, and more.

I love thyme. In my herb garden, I have four English thyme and one lemon thyme. In fact, I often add a bit fresh from the garden when I'm making asparagus frittata.

Last week at the Scituate Farmers Market, Rhode Island Soap Works, which has a lovely barn/shop on Joe Sarle Road in Glocester, RI, was selling herb plants from their greenhouse. I purchased lime thyme and carraway thyme, both new to me, and I don't think either will pair well with asparagus. Any suggestions for how to cook with them?

ASPARAGUS ON ASPARAGUS
This recipe for asparagus spears with an asparagus dip comes from Happy in the Kitchen, by Michel Richard. If you don't have it, check your local library, or look for a copy for your own happy kitchen at Eagle Trading Company in Assonet, Massachusetts, my favorite used cookbook store in all the land. Serves 4 as an appetizer; the dip could also be served with roasted potato wedges or as a spread on a chicken sandwich.

24 large asparagus (about 2 pounds)
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice, or to taste
Granulated sugar
Sea salt

Set aside 4 asparagus spears for the vinaigrette. Cut off the tough bottom ends of the asparagus spears and set those aside for the vinaigrette as well. With a vegetable peeler, peel the remaining asparagus spears from about an inch below the tip to the bottom of the spear.

Set a steamer basket in a pot over simmering water. Place the peeled asparagus in the basket, cover, and steam for about 5-6 minutes, or until the spears are just tender with pierced with the tip of a paring knife. Be careful not to overcook the asparagus.

Meanwhile, fill a bowl with ice water. When the asparagus is cooked, lift the spears with a pair of tongs and submerge them in the ice bath to cool, then remove and roll them in a clean kitchen towel to dry.

For the vinaigrette, cut the reserved 4 asparagus spears into 1-inch pieces. Place in a small saucepan with the trimmed asparagus bottoms and add 1/4 cup water and the olive oil. Bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer gently for 8-10 minutes, or until the asparagus is completely softened. The water should have evaporated, and the asparagus should be stewing in the oil.

Pour the asparagus into a blender and puree until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl and whisk in the mustard, lemon juice, and a pinch each of sugar and salt. Serve the asparagus on a platter, with the vinaigrette in a small dish or ramekin on the side for dipping.

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There's always a great close-outs section on the Jessica's Biscuit web site, too. And if you spend $50 or more, you can get a free one-year magazine subscription to Gourmet, Bon Appetít, Condé Nast Traveler or Domino.