Balsamic vinegar (Recipe: strawberries in balsamic)

Act II, Scene 2.

The balcony scene.

Montagues. Capulets. What's in a name?

O Rubio, Rubio,
Wherefore art thou, Rubio?

Wait a second...Rubio???

Juliet may have been talking to her beloved Romeo from that Verona balcony, but I'm talking about my beloved, my absolute favorite balsamic vinegar.

My ten-year love affair with Rubio began, as many love stories do, with a chance encounter. On one of our wanderings around the neighborhoods of Boston, my friend Candy and I stopped at Salumeria Italiana, a modern-day, old-fashioned grocery store on Richmond Street in the North End. In addition to beautiful breads and cheeses, pastas and olives, they were featuring a balsamic vinegar imported from Italy just for them. Sure, we said, we'd love a taste.

Need I say more? Now, despite living close to Providence's Federal Hill neighborhood and its bounty of Italian groceries, I have Rubio shipped to my house in rural Rhode Island. I share a case of six bottles with a friend or two a few times a year.

There are, basically, only two types of balsamic vinegar: tradizionale, made from 100% Trebbiano and Spergola grape must, aged in barrels for 12 years (and up to 70 years), certified authentic by the Consorzio Aceto Balsamico; and everything else. Called balsamic condiment or commercial balsamic, everything else often means a blend of must (50% or less) and red wine vinegar. 

Rubio balsamic vinegar (condiment) is hand-crafted exclusively for Salumeria Italiana in the style of authentic tradizionale balsamico, but at a much lower price, $35 for 8.5 ounces. (True balsamic is always, always very expensive. There are no bargains. It's never sold at your local supermarket. If the price is cheap, the vinegar is mass-produced.)

To create Rubio, balsamic vinegar musts that have been aging in wooden barrels 10-20 years are mixed together, yielding a rich, thick, not-overly-sweet result. If you like very sweet vinegars, try Villa Manodori ($40 for 8.5 ounces); it's the favorite of several people in my cooking groups, though it's a bit too much for me.

My pantry holds several kinds of balsamic vinegar (condiment); in addition to Rubio, which I use for salads, cheeses, and other dishes where the flavor needs to shine, there's always a bottle of Trader Joe's balsamic, a great value, which is perfect for cooking, for splashing on dark greens, or reducing into a syrup. Trader Joe's also sells white balsamic, made with grape must and white wine vinegar, which is lovely for salad dressings.

Shop where you can taste; I know I always say that, but it's the best way to learn. Try my beloved Rubio, or find your own favorite balsamico.

There's nothing quite like being in love.

STRAWBERRIES IN BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Simplicity! The success of this classic Italian dessert depends on using the very best strawberries you can find (our local gourmet markets have beautiful giant strawberries now, though they are not locally grown), and the very best vinegar. In summer, top with a mint leaf or two from your herb garden. Serves as many as you wish.

1/2 cup strawberries per person, washed, stem removed, cut in half lengthwise
Rubio (or your favorite) balsamic vinegar
Granulated sugar

Place cut strawberries in a nonreactive (stainless steel, glass or ceramic) bowl. Drizzle with vinegar, and sprinkle very lightly with sugar. Mix well, and set aside for at least an hour before serving.

Serve on its own, or as a sauce over good vanilla ice cream.

Comments

[Stefanie]

LOVE the bottle and label! So pretty.

[catherine Ross]

I bet its wonderful! Me and my pocket book will stick with TJ's for now, though!

[Kalyn]

Never seen it or tried it, but I'll keep my eyes open for it. I like Fini brand, but now I'm wondering if it's a true balsamic. Whether it is or not, it tastes pretty good.

[Tanna]

Yes, I love stores where you can taste. Haven't head of this one but I like to try it.

[Lydia]

Stefanie, thanks!

Catherine, Trader Joe's always has a place in my pantry. The consistent high quality of their products, and the low prices, are amazing. The closest one to me is more than an hour away, though.

Kalyn, I've used the Fini brand, too. I believe it's a condiment, not a tradizionale, but the taste is great.

Tanna, you can order from Salumeria Italiana by mail (as I do). Worth a splurge to try this vinegar at least once!

[Mimi]

The bottles and labels of vinegar and olive oil are so beautiful and so diverse that collecting them is rapidly becoming my hobby.

It's also cluttering up my kitchen, but oh, what lovely clutter!

[Terry B]

The strawberries sound delicious! And my wife just got me a lovely new bottle of balsamic vinegar, the name of which escapes me right now. I like tempering the sweetness of fruit with something unexpected. One nice little fruit salad [which can double as a salsa on grilled or pan-seared fish or chops] is sliced strawberries and bite-sized chunks of mango, tossed with some chopped chives. The chives play against the sweet fruit flavors to create complexity and an outdoorsy wildness.

[Veron]

thanks for the tip on this balsamic. I'm always looking for a good one. I just bought one from Olivetto , aged 30 years. Have not opened it yet but it is real thick...

[Lydia]

Mimi, I know exactly what you mean, as I often get seduced by beautiful labels....but really, as you know, the fun is in the tasting!

Terry, welcome to The Perfect Pantry. I love combining fruit and vinegar. I'll remember your fruit-and-chive salsa in the spring, as the chives are the first to appear in my herb garden.

Veron, you are a lucky girl! Thirty-year balsamico. You must report to us after you've opened it. I can only imagine....